Flashy or iconic? How leopard print took over

Worn by everybody from pin-ups and “mob wives” to Jackie O and royalty, leopard print has lengthy divided opinion. As the vacation season approaches, the daring sample has made its option to turning into the social gathering look du jour.

Once dismissed as kitsch, leopard print has quietly made its means into the mainstream, to the purpose the place some now see the daring sample as a neutral. As the social gathering season approaches, streetwear racks fill with blazers, blouses, belts and clothes, all sporting the once-divisive print.

But how did leopard print evolve into such a flexible type? While it has by no means utterly disappeared from our wardrobes, the print has taken on many identities, symbolizing every part from punk rebel and rock ‘n’ roll boldness to pin-up glamor and regal magnificence. Despite its widespread attraction, let’s not neglect, it additionally went by means of durations when it was thought-about gaudy.

For Jo Weldon, writer of Fierce: The History of Leopard Print, it has at all times been a “progressive print” and lengthy related to outsiders. “It was thought-about so daring that the primary girl to put on it was an unique dancer,” she tells the BBC, “in all probability due to its animalistic and wild connotations.”

The historical past of leopard print predates its legacy in trendy vogue. In historic Africa and Asia, actual leopard pores and skin was a logo of standing, worn by royalty and warriors. In the twentieth century, as the material turned extra accessible, Hollywood catapulted the print into popular culture with its problematic Tarzan movie – most notably in 1946’s Tarzan and the Leopard Woman. Music icon Eartha Kitt embraced the print in a forceful transfer that reclaimed the material from these doubtful associations with primitivism. Jackie Kennedy helped solidify its attraction: its 1962 leopard fur coat stays a supply of inspiration at this time, and on the time it was stated to have created a vogue development that killed thousands of leopards.

The affiliation of leopard print with sophistication and sensuality was embodied by Mrs. Robinson, performed by Anne Bancroft in The Graduatehowever as soon as it moved from fur to print, it wasn’t at all times seen as so elegant. It was the signature look of iconic British cleaning soap characters Bet on Lynch of Coronation Street and Kat Slater from Eastenders, along with the American tv character Peggy Bundy of Married… with Children, partly to sign their supposed flamboyance in addition to their tenacity. But pop stars together with Mel B – o Scary spices – AND Amy Winehouse – wore it with defiant delight. And a sublime leopard devotee Kate Moss she even included a coat within the new-for-her print collaboration with Zara. These names present how leopard print has change into a logo of self-expression and energy, one thing that rings true even within the pin-up world.

“It’s at all times standard in burlesque,” ​​says Weldon, who along with her work as a author, additionally heads the New York School of Burlesque. She traces the seductive energy of prints – the place else – to the leopard itself. “They are nocturnal and mysterious creatures, which provides to the appeal of the print.”

Despite his ardour for all issues leopard print, Weldon is properly conscious of the lingering snobbery. “There will at all times be people who find themselves dismissive and say it is ‘trashy,’ maybe due to its associations with folks like Peggy Bundy or Kat Slater, however that criticism usually stems from classism.” And, he provides, smiling, “Those characters make me love print much more!”

This sentiment is echoed by Joy Montgomery of British Vogue. “There has at all times been a stress between this print embodying liberation and sexuality, in addition to being highly effective and but female,” she tells the BBC. Montgomery, the journal’s enterprise editor, recollects a time, not so way back, when leopard print was related to an outspoken “sure sort of girl.” She provides: “Janice from Friends involves thoughts, as does former prime minister Theresa May, who usually wore leopard-print heels has aroused strong opinions.”

According to Montgomery, attitudes have modified lately, thanks largely to Gen Z’s daring experimentation with vogue on TikTok. “Take the current mafia spouse developmentthe place abruptly leopard print was all over the place in our feeds.” She provides: “This is a era that loves a historic landmark or drawing inspiration from film characters, and it is good to see them taking part in with the print with out baggage.”

Gen Z’s love of classic purchasing it additionally fueled the resurgence of leopard print. Given the mannequin’s lengthy historical past, second-hand items are simply discovered on-line or in classic and charity outlets. Montgomery wonders whether or not older girls really feel the identical freedom to experiment. However, he factors out that the autumn/winter 2024-2025 runways confirmed a extra refined method, citing Dior leopard trench coat and that of Alaïa chic knitwear as examples.

It’s one thing print designer Christy Deering he observed it too. For the final 10 years he has designed for main excessive vogue manufacturers and within the final yr alone he has designed greater than 10 leopard print clothes. She credit high-end labels, in addition to “it-girl” manufacturers, with making leopard print impartial. “We noticed labels like Ganni and Rixo function leopard prints in 2023, and once more on the high-end runways of 24/25,” he says. Deering highlights a pair of sneakers Adidas x Wales Bonner this has helped to normalize leopard print even in equipment. “Where it was as soon as thought-about a daring print,” she says, “it might probably now be paired with day, evening, work and even sleep.” Those sneakers, by the way in which, began retailing for $200 and now promote for as much as $2000.

When designing, Deering at all times retains a single buyer in thoughts. When requested who embodies the leopard print aesthetic, she describes it as somebody who desires to dabble in traits whereas sustaining a way of individuality. “Leopard has change into a staple of many ladies’s wardrobes,” she says, “from the glam woman to the femme woman to the grunge woman—there’s at all times a house for leopard print.”

“In at this time’s world, any judgment about leopard print isn’t about classism, however about individualism,” says vogue and sweetness editor Lauren Cunningham. He believes the development is right here to remain, however sees a rising want from folks to form it their very own means.

“Vintage leopard print will at all times be standard and, with platforms like eBay, Vinted and charity outlets, it is simpler to personalize the development moderately than purchasing straight from the excessive avenue.”

Like designer Christy Deering and Vogue’s Joy Montgomery, Cunningham follows vogue weeks carefully. “There is usually little selection when attempting to identify traits throughout the catwalks,” she says. “But this yr, leopard print was all over the place. I believe it is as a result of it is so versatile and enjoyable—you may make it punk, female, bohemian, or tailor-made.”

Her recommendation for anybody eager to strive the development? “Start small, with an adjunct like a belt or bag, and work your means as much as bigger leopard spots!”